Using "view source" and flipping back and forth between the HTML and their webpage is an excellent way to figure out how people do things. And, erm, "borrowing" bits of code and putting it on a blank page of your own is a time-honoured method of learning how what bits of code do what sort of things.

Having someone to talk you through the basics in a couple of hours can help too, if that's your learning style. And you can't deny that Jan's remarkably conveniently located. :)